I had just finished my exam in the morning and a few hours later Steve and I were driving south. Steve, my awesome little car with a rainbow bum and now Surfboards strapped to the roof. Before picking up my mate Nevil who, came flying in on Monday to join me for the Trip to Sardinia, I spend a lovely weekend in Stuttgart. I stayed with my best Friend to celebrate her birthday and we enjoyed the late summer, early October sun.
Monday afternoon we were speeding across the beautiful Swiss Alps trying to catch the Boat to Porto Torres. We just about made it on the ferry in Genova and watched the mainland get smaller and then disappear into the night enjoying a bottle of Ichnusa on deck. In Sardinia we arrived at beautiful weather and made a first stop to get coffee and croissants overlooking to sea.
We had booked an apartment and surf camp from Wednesday, so we had time to stop at a few places along the way to Capo Mannu. First, we passed Sassari, a city a bit inland with typical Italian buildings and flair. After walking around for a while just enjoying the sun, vibes and the fact that we were able to come to this place in the strange time present. For our first proper meal Nevil had picked this lovely little family place with traditional Sardinian cuisine. In the front worked a cute older lady who kept talking in puzzling Italian to us and kept the wine and food coming. The Snails were surprisingly delicious but the tripa and donkey steak were not what I hoped for. Of course, we also enjoyed some Wine-Sardinian Canonau is my favourite, and since we were on holiday and it’s Italy, we got some beers and kept driving.
Next, we hit the seaside town of Alghero. A small stone beach framed by a beautiful peer invites to chill out for a while and enjoy the sunshine and sound of the ocean. Also, in the old tower there is a cool shop displaying flip knives made from horn or wood.
We were driving down the windy costal road around 50 km to Bosa. This town has very pretty, narrow, cobble stone roads and is located on a small river with bank of natural stones. Somehow, we ended up with a huge bag of bread which was mostly air surrounded by a thin layer of crispy bread. Throughout the whole trip, this ‘Pan de Bosa’ was part of many meals and cheese snacks. The sun had long set, when we found an abandoned campsite by the beach where we stayed the night.
Early the next morning we got up, packed up the tent, quick yoga session and we were off to Putzu Idu. Near the ‘is benas surf club’, we had a coffee and croissants before getting the key for apartment and went surfing. It was just beautiful to be in the ocean, the sun was already warm and the waves friendly, perfect to get back into it. And it was still warm enough to wear a shorty with around 20°C water temperature which made me happy.
Later that day, after another surf session in the evening, which was a bit more challenging for me personally, my dear friend Bertrand arrived with his van. He had come down from France and spend the next 6 days with us in the amazing surf apartment. We had been so lucky getting this accommodation, especially since I had asked for dorms in the beginning and had not seen any pictures of the place.
Streets of Bosa
It was located right in front of the beach and two surf spots, and at least 5 more within a 15 minutes’ drive. The highlight however was the spacious living room facing a balcony and overlooking the beach and sea, with its massive wooden doors and surfboards on the walls it was just perfect. Most days we went surfing, always had good food eighter at the place or in one of the amazing restaurants around the area. Best pizza can be found in Riola opposite the supermarket ‘Crai’ and if you can, get a meal at the hotel ‘Menhirs’. The Chef there is amazing and super passionate and of course they have good wine and local spirits.
(for more surf info I will upload a map of the spots around capo mannu)
After we had a good time by the ocean, we got excited to see what else we could see on the island. Bertrand and I loved horse riding and Nevil was more than happy to go also, so we had made arrangements to go on a little track near ‘lago de Gusana’. It was quite an experience and the owner of ‘Centro Equestre Taloro’ was a very lovely guy. When we arrived at 9:30 we he welcomed us with coffee and moonshine spirits. The paperwork took a while and our moderate Spanish and his little English were enough to make fun conversation. By the time we got on the horses I felt suitably loose, which made the riding even more fun and the landscape even more amazing. For a while we were climbing up and down the mountain, then we got to a beautiful gallop stretch alongside the lake. My horse had been excited to run the whole time and galloping through nature in the sun I felt so free and all my senses were fully in the moment.
The Rest of the day we spend in a nearby town where we had failed to find an open restaurant. We ended up bumming it in a parking space right in the middle of this picturesque town. Here we were cooking, playing, music, dancing and drinking from the wine, the Farmer had given us upon our leaving.
The next two days we spend driving north- east visiting some amazing places and camping up where ever we got tired that night. Nevil had done a little research on the island and let us to one of the most amazing bays I have seen, ’Cala Goloritz’ . It was about an hour hike from the parking lot. Climbing down rocky cliffs and through the forest to where you could reach the ocean with crystal clear, blue water, surrounded by stunning rock formations.
A place with great personal value to me is ‘Capo Testa’ in the north. Here you can see Corsica on the other side of the street of Bonifacio. The ocean is pressing through the Islands creating waves with great power bursting on the cliffs.
When we got there, the sky was grey already and you could see the rain coming in a few minutes before it hit the land. Even though the weather wasn’t great it suites this place, the raw energy of the elements coming together. We could take shelter near the light house and under rocks whilst drinking grappa, so it really was great.
After a while, the rain showed no signs of stopping again. In ‘Santa Teresa di Galura’ we found a coffee bar, a lovely place where locals were enjoying their wine and liquor creating such a happy vibe. Whilst outside heavy rain was tearing down in the dusk, we spend the rest of the day there.
Relatively early the next morning we went for a last Italian breakfast in Olbia, completed by limoncello and took Nevil to the airport.
Later that day I would also have to start my return journey and get on the ferry. But not without visiting a beach, which is supposed to be one of the ten most beautiful beaches, called ‘Spiagge del Principe’. I think most of the beaches and bays in Sardinia are absolutely beautiful and so diverse, that it would be hard to choose. But this one is definitely up there, a small but wide-open sand bay, smoothing into the clear blue, turquoise water. Shallow cliffs frame the bay along the water and also form a small peninsular a few meters towards the open sea. Small trees and bushes flowing down the hills from the inland right up to the white sand beach.
From the port in Olbia, you can take the ferry to different destinations in the Mediterranean and it was very tempting to you buy a ticket to Spain or even stay in Sardinia. But the trip was over for me and so I found myself on the deck again, a bottle of Ichnusa in my hand, watching the lights disappear into the night. I felt a bit blue realising this great time was over but at the same time very happy and thankful for all the experiences and new impressions and amazing memories.
~ Sardinia is definitely worth traveling, the Island and the possible activities are super diverse and the roads are beautiful for road trips ~
