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Two places, that are in close proximity to each other, just about 7 km apart are Sayulita and San Pancho nevertheless, the vibe is very different and the experiences from different worlds.

San Pancho is a tiny sleepy surf village with a powerful break on one end of the bay. The life here is centred around the only street that runs from the country road, connecting the surrounding villages, down to the beach. In about 15 minutes you can walk from one end of the village to the other and see most of what is there to see. Though there is everything what could be needed in a coastal town. A few supermarkets, bakery and fresh produce shops, restaurants, bars, cafes and surf shops as well as a yoga-Pilates and a fitness studio, a library and superfood store.

Along the beachfront, which really is just a small square a crafts and art market pops up daily. There are three hostels, only one of which can be found online, all situated along the main road as well. The typical relaxed Mexican small beach town vibe is present, and I found very welcoming. The Beach is super beautiful and when the tide is down you can stroll along into lonely paradisical bays to the east.

lonely bay framed by green hills and palm trees
San Pancho

Walking to the west passing the lagoon and across a little peninsular you can reach Sayulita in around an hour and drop into a totally different world.

 

The beach is usually packed with national and international tourists. Countless Palapas occupy over half of the space and the water is busy with surfers, body boarders and swimmers. Walking towards the main road you will pass the sewage stream nicknamed poo-river. Just a few meters from the most popular beach the city disposes excess water into the ocean. Coming through the town the banks are full of rubbish and faecal matter and quite disgusting. Especially after heavy rainfall I personally would steer clear of the water near the centre.

To reach lively streets in town you just wonder along one of the small roads directed away from the beach. There you will be greeted by a pictures scene, that you would have seen in travel magazines and ads. It is dominated by colourful bars and fish taco stalls, artsy craft shops and surf schools, families and groups of young people fill the streets, squares, and little shops. On the weekends locals from the area join foreigners (mainly from the US I found) and the nights are steeped in music dance and loose parties.

The contrary of the two places is intense, Sayulita offering westernised holiday paradise that never seems to sleep. San Pancho is a calm vibey village where travellers must adapt to the local way of life.

street performers in Mayan costume
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